Serge Lutens is one of the houses that defined niche perfumery, and Chergui and Ambre Sultan are two of its best-known fragrances. Both were composed by Christopher Sheldrake, both are worn by men and women, and both are warm. But they are warm in very different ways. Chergui is honeyed and smoky. Ambre Sultan is resinous and herbal.
The difference at a glance
- Chergui: launched in 2001. Tobacco leaf, honey, hay, incense, amber, iris, rose, sandalwood and musk. Fragrantica files it as oriental spicy.
- Ambre Sultan: launched in 1993. Amber, resins, myrrh, benzoin and vanilla, with bay leaf, oregano, coriander, myrtle, angelica, patchouli and sandalwood.
Chergui: honey, tobacco and hay
Chergui takes its name from the hot desert wind that blows across Morocco, and it smells like warm air. Tobacco leaf and honey come first, with dry hay behind them. Incense and amber give it a soft smoke, and iris and rose keep the heart from becoming too sweet.
It is sweet, but not a dessert. It reads more like a pipe tobacco pouch kept in a wooden box. People who like tobacco fragrances but find most of them too dark tend to love it.
Ambre Sultan: amber with herbs
Ambre Sultan is one of the reference ambers in perfumery. The base is rich resin: myrrh, benzoin and vanilla. What makes it different is the herbs on top. Bay leaf, oregano, coriander and myrtle give it a dry, almost savoury, aromatic opening before the amber takes over.
It is less sweet than Chergui and more resinous, close to the smell of a souk's spice and incense stalls. As it settles, it becomes a smooth, warm amber with sandalwood and patchouli.
Side by side
| Chergui | Ambre Sultan | |
|---|---|---|
| Character | Honey, tobacco, hay | Resin, amber, herbs |
| Sweetness | Medium | Low to medium |
| Opening | Honeyed and smoky | Dry and herbal |
| Feel | Cosy, golden, soft | Rich, resinous, classic |
Which one should you buy?
- You like tobacco and honey: Chergui.
- You like amber, incense and oud-style warmth: Ambre Sultan.
- You want something easy to like the first time: Chergui is the gentler start.
- You want a cold-weather signature: either, and that is the case for trying both.
Both are autumn and winter fragrances. If resins and incense are your direction, see also our list of oud fragrances to try. For the Egyptian summer, see our guide to summer and winter perfume.
Why a decant makes sense here
Serge Lutens fragrances are distinctive, and a full bottle is a real commitment. A 4 ML decant of each lets you wear them on different days and decide with your own nose before buying a bottle.
Questions
What is the difference between Chergui and Ambre Sultan?
Chergui is built on honey, tobacco leaf and hay. Ambre Sultan is built on amber resins, with an herbal opening of bay leaf, oregano and coriander.
Which is sweeter?
Chergui. Ambre Sultan is drier and more resinous.
Are Chergui and Ambre Sultan unisex?
Yes. Serge Lutens presents both for women and men.
Are the decants original?
Yes. They are poured in Cairo from original Serge Lutens bottles when you order.